“Let’s take a break,” he said after a couple of minutes spent finishing a stroke. About two minutes later a pizza delivery guy showed up with th...ee boxes and a carton of Cokes. We all dug in and Doc asked to see the brushes I’d brought back. He nodded his approval and gave me a couple of tips about how to use each one. He wasn’t at all upset that I hadn’t started putting paint on the wall yet and walked over to look at the adjustments I’d made on the sketch.“This is good. Is she really that. “Hey Lars, I’m going out back to get some good waves, you want to come?” She said, knocking him out of his self-chastising.“Nah, I’ll be fine, you on ahead. I’ve had my limit for the day.”“Hah, well that’s a first!” She said jokingly, both of them knowing he could do more.Out the back she caught a really good wave that almost carried her back to Lars, but then she paddled back out. She saw a really big wave, and knew it wasn’t for her, so she took and breath and dove through, trying to get. More

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